Which hangboard workout should I do?
New to hangboarding? Climb for a year or two first, then start with beginner hangs: 10 seconds on a big edge, feet taking some weight, with long rests. Tendons adapt far slower than muscles.
Max hangs build pure finger strength: five 10-second hangs on a 20 mm edge with three minutes rest, adding weight as you get stronger. This is the protocol most climbers plateauing around 7a/V6 benefit from.
7/3 repeaters train strength-endurance: hang 7 seconds, rest 3, six times per set. Great before a route season.
Test your max hang every 6–8 weeks to see if it works — then compare it with your climbing in the finger strength calculator.