Kehity

7/3 repeaters hangboard workout

Repeaters train strength-endurance: the ability to keep pulling hard on small holds when your forearms are already working. They suit sport climbers and long boulder problems.

Get ready
10
Set 1/4 · rep 1/6

7 s on / 3 s off × 6, 4 sets — strength-endurance

A slightly bigger edge or less weight than max hangs. The last reps of each set should be hard but clean — stop when your grip changes.

Sets
4

Who it's for

Climbers who have done some hangboarding already and want more staying power on routes, especially before an outdoor season.

How to do it

  1. Warm up for 15 minutes with easy climbing and a few short hangs.
  2. Use a 20 mm edge or slightly bigger, half crimp, at bodyweight or with a little assistance.
  3. Hang 7 seconds, rest 3 seconds, six times — that's one set.
  4. Rest 3 minutes between sets. Do 4–6 sets.
  5. Stop the set when your grip changes or you start to shake; clean reps only.

How to progress

Twice a week for 4–6 weeks. Progress by adding a set, then by using a smaller edge or a little weight. Combine with route climbing rather than replacing it.

Questions

Are repeaters good for bouldering?

They help on long, sustained boulders, but max hangs build the peak strength most boulder problems demand.

Can I do repeaters and max hangs in the same session?

Better not. Do max hangs first in a block, then switch to repeaters before your route season.

Is finger strength really your limiter?

Kehity compares your max hang with the grades you send, the styles you avoid and how often you try climbs at your limit.

Find my limiter — free