Kehity

Max hangs: the hangboard protocol for finger strength

Max hangs build pure finger strength: short, heavy hangs with long rests. They're the most reliable way to raise the strength ceiling that many climbers hit around 7a / V6.

Get ready
10
Hang 1/5

5 × 10 s, 3 min rest — max finger strength

20 mm edge, half crimp. Add weight until 10 s feels like 8/10 effort with a couple of seconds left in the tank. Twice a week at most.

Sets
5

Who it's for

Climbers who can comfortably hang a 20 mm edge for 10 seconds at bodyweight and have done beginner hangboarding for a couple of months.

How to do it

  1. Warm up for 15 minutes, finishing with a few progressively heavier hangs.
  2. Use a 20 mm edge, half crimp, both hands, shoulders engaged.
  3. Choose a load where 10 seconds feels like 8 out of 10 effort — you could hold 2–3 seconds more.
  4. Hang for 10 seconds, then rest 3 full minutes. Do 5 sets.
  5. Log the added weight so you can progress next session.

How to progress

Twice a week for 6–8 weeks, then a lighter week. Add 1–2.5 kg when all five hangs feel solid. Retest your max hang at the end of the block to see what you gained.

Questions

How much weight should I add?

Start where 10 seconds feels like 8/10 effort. For many 7a climbers that is 10–20% of bodyweight, but start conservatively.

Max hangs or repeaters?

Max hangs for strength (bouldering, hard crux moves). Repeaters for strength-endurance (routes, long boulders). Pick one per training block.

Why 3 minutes of rest?

Short rests turn max hangs into an endurance workout. Full recovery lets every hang be near maximal, which is what builds strength.

Is finger strength really your limiter?

Kehity compares your max hang with the grades you send, the styles you avoid and how often you try climbs at your limit.

Find my limiter — free